You can find the current delivery times in the shopping cart and during the order process. You will usually receive your delivery within 24–48 hours (within Germany).

Have you changed your mind after completing your order and would like to cancel it? Then please contact our service team immediately by phone at +49 8333 308-10.

Since we process your order as quickly as possible, cancellation is only possible within 1 hour of placing the order.

You can find all information about our shipping costs on the following page: Delivery times and shipping costs

Your parcel will be delivered quickly and reliably with DHL (Deutsche Post).

For a free return of your item, you can easily create a return label from DHL. Please fill out the corresponding form, which you can access via the following link:

• for Germany: Return label from Germany
• for Austria: Return label from Austria
• for Switzerland: A return label for a free return is included with your shipment
• for returns from other countries, please contact our customer service at service@fischer-wolle.de

The label will then be sent to your email address. You can either print the label or show the QR code displayed on it at the post office. There, the label will be printed directly on site.

The gauge indicates how many stitches or rows you need for 10 cm. On our yarn labels and in our catalogs, you will find information for stockinette stitch, and in our patterns, you will find information for the respective stitch pattern.

To achieve a perfect result, you should make a swatch in the corresponding pattern and with the chosen yarn before starting any handwork. Knit or crochet a piece measuring approximately 15 × 15 cm. Then count – preferably in the middle of the swatch – how many stitches or rows make up 10 cm. Make sure your swatch lies flat and is not distorted.

If your gauge does not match the information in the pattern, choose a different needle size: thicker needles if you count more stitches and rows per 10 cm, and thinner needles if you count fewer stitches and rows.

If you like to work from your own designs, you can use the gauge to calculate the required number of stitches and rows.

Example: Your sweater should be 48 cm wide and 56 cm long, and your gauge is 24 stitches and 31 rows per 10 cm. This mathematically corresponds to 2.4 stitches and 3.1 rows per centimeter.

For the width, you calculate: 48 × 2.4 = 115 stitches plus 2 selvedge stitches. So you cast on 117 stitches.

For the length, you calculate: 56 × 3.1 = 174 rows.

The colors of individual balls of yarn may appear different despite having the same color and dye lot number. Multicolor yarns often have a very long color gradient. Since it is technically not possible for all balls to start or end with the same color, one shade or another may predominate on the surface of the ball.

If you want the color gradient in your individual knitted pieces to always start at the same point, we recommend unwinding the yarn from the ball until you reach the desired color.

You can start knitting from either the inside or the outside of the ball. However, then consistently stick to the chosen method, as the way you unwind the yarn influences the sequence of colors.

Yarns are dyed in large vats. In addition to the color number, each dye lot receives a lot number. Yarns with the same color and lot number come from the same dye lot and are color-matched.

If a color is re-produced, it is not always technically possible to achieve exactly the same shade. The dye lot may differ slightly and therefore receives a new lot number.

Therefore, you should avoid using yarns with the same color number but different lot numbers within one knitted item, as color differences may be visible.

We recommend that you order enough yarn for your entire project and check the labels for matching lot numbers before knitting.

For example, use the yarn from the other dye lot for collars, edgings, or similar areas. Alternatively, you can compensate for possible color differences by knitting alternating rows with both dye lots.

Do not work yarns from different dye lots within a continuous area without a corresponding transition.

Despite all technological advances, it is difficult to dye yarn fibers completely colorfast. If excess dye adheres to the outside of the fibers, it can later – usually during the first wash – come off again.

Therefore, wash your knitted item separately from other colors during the first wash. We recommend adding a shot glass of vinegar to the washing machine in addition to the wool detergent to neutralize excess dye. You can also use a commercially available color and dirt catcher sheet.

Always wash your knitted items with a high water level and without spinning, and do not leave them in the suds for too long. These conditions usually occur automatically during the wool wash cycle of the washing machine.

We generally recommend washing your knitwear on the wool cycle of your washing machine. Turn your knitwear inside out beforehand to protect it.

Do not use fabric softener, as it can damage animal fibers over time.

Remove your knitwear from the machine promptly after washing and carefully lay it on dry towels. Roll it up in the towels and gently squeeze out excess water. Do not wring!

Then lay your knitwear flat to dry in its original dimensions – gently shaping it if necessary.

Weight fluctuations in yarns are completely normal. Whether natural fiber or synthetic – yarns contain moisture that can change depending on the environment.

During prolonged storage in heated rooms or at high outdoor temperatures, up to 10% of the ball's weight can be lost due to moisture loss. With higher humidity, the yarn absorbs moisture and thus weight again.

The yarn is measured at its stated weight at a humidity of 65%. The decisive factor here is the running length of the thread. For example, the specification "running length 250 m / 100 g" means that 250 meters of the yarn weigh 100 g under these conditions.

Pilling is generally not a defect. The small bobbles are caused by friction and rubbing against other materials.

Do not pull off the pilling bobbles, as this can pull out more fibers. Instead, carefully cut them off. For knitted items that pill more, a fabric shaver can be helpful.

Wool is a natural material that can felt if processed or cared for incorrectly. The finer and higher quality the fiber, the more carefully you should treat it.

Our recommendations:

• Do not knit too tightly.
• Wash your knitted items with little detergent and plenty of water.
• Always follow the care instructions on the yarn label.

From raw material to finished yarn, it is a long journey during which the non-endless yarn sometimes has to be knotted together. Knots are also a sign that the material has been checked and damaged areas removed. Of course, you can expect us to supply you with flawless goods with as few knots as possible. However, some knots unfortunately have to be tolerated to a certain extent with today's spinning technology. 1 - 2 knots per ball of yarn are acceptable.

Our tip: Never knit a knot in, it could unravel when washed. Untie the knot and start with the new yarn at the beginning of the row; yarn ends can then be used perfectly for seaming.

With today's technology, hardly any fiber can be dyed or bleached completely lightfast. They all therefore have a limited lightfastness value. Here are some tips: Never expose white or pastel-colored yarns or handicrafts to bright sunlight or neon light. Do not use optical brighteners when washing.

Your needlework will thank you for the following care with a good fit: Do not work the yarns too loosely and adhere to the gauge. Ribbons will keep their shape if they are knitted with smaller needles than the rest. If possible, prefer machine washing on the wool cycle over hand washing. If hand washing cannot be avoided due to the material, carefully lift your needlework out of the basin with both hands; never pull. Before washing, measure your needlework. Then, after washing, lay it out to dry to these exact measurements, if necessary also in a compressed form. Viscose yarns and Super-Wash treated yarns are particularly prone to losing their shape; please always dry these pieces in a compressed form and never use fabric softener.

Knitting + Washing = Felted KnittingWhat is normally completely undesirable in knitting is deliberately created with our felting wool. You make an oversized knitted or crocheted piece, wash it at 50°C in the washing machine, and you will be surprised by the firmness and warmth of the felted piece.This creates unique "felted" bags that are super durable. And probably the warmest hats and socks in the world - try it out!The shrinkage is between 30% and 40%; when wet, your knitted piece can still be easily shaped (for socks or hats, it's best to pull them over your foot or head while still damp).

The difficulty levels help you choose a project suitable for your experience:

• Easy: Simple patterns using knit and purl stitches, uncomplicated designs, and minimal finishing effort. Basic knowledge is sufficient.
• Medium: Cable and lace patterns, simple Fair Isle and intarsia techniques, or more complex designs and finishing. This also includes very fine yarns and effect yarns. You'll need advanced basic knowledge and some patience here.
• Challenging: Elaborate patterns, special techniques like short rows, and unusual designs and finishing. For these, you should have versatile experience, especially with pattern knitting.

The classification is a guide – which techniques you find easy is entirely individual.

Our modeling department will be happy to assist you with any questions about knitting or crocheting. You can reach us at +49 8333 308-10 or by email at service@fischer-wolle.de.

You can dispose of our bands in the blue paper recycling bin. You can dispose of the packaging of our value packs in the yellow recycling bin.

No. You are legally obliged to return used batteries and rechargeable batteries separately from household waste. This also applies to button cells and damaged batteries.

Separate collection makes it possible to recover valuable raw materials and to treat pollutants professionally. Incorrectly disposed of batteries can endanger the environment and health; in the case of lithium-containing batteries, there is also a risk of fire.

The crossed-out wheeled bin means that batteries and rechargeable batteries do not belong in household waste, but must be collected separately.

Additional chemical symbols indicate the heavy metals contained:

• Cd stands for cadmium.
• Pb stands for lead.
• Hg stands for mercury and can be found on older batteries.

You can dispose of old batteries from electrical appliances free of charge at suitable municipal collection points or in retail stores.

You can also return used batteries of the battery categories that we offer or have offered as new batteries – in quantities typically accumulated by private end-users. The return is independent of brand, origin, chemical composition, size, and condition. You don't have to buy anything new to do so.

For lithium-containing batteries and accumulators, tape off the terminals before returning them to prevent short circuits. Protect them from heat and damage.

Hand over damaged, swollen, or leaking batteries directly to the collection point staff and inform them of their condition. Do not simply place them in an unattended collection box. Before shipping, clarify whether and under what conditions this is permissible.

Remove batteries and accumulators before disposing of the device, if possible without destroying them, and return them separately. If they cannot be removed safely, hand in the complete device at a suitable collection point for electrical waste.